一、你分得清楚吗?-- 四种攀岩类型:
1.Free climbing
Moving up a rock using only hands, feet, and natural holds. Ropes and pro are only used for protection of the climber and not for progression.
2.Free solo
Free climbing while using no ropes for protection. You fall - you die.
3.Mixed climbing
Climbing with a combination of different methods of ascent. e.g mixed free and aid climbing, mixed rock and ice climbing, etc.
4.Sport climbing
Climbing routes of (extreme ?) gymnastic difficulty while protection oneself by clipping copiously numbered and generously spaced preplaced free protection.
二、在什么情况下会说:
1."Belay on"
When the belayer is ready to belay the climber up, he yells "Belay on".
2."Climbing"
What the climber shouts after the belayer screams "Belay on".
3."Got me?"
A wake up call for the belayer, used to warn her that you are about to put some weight on the rope.
4."Off Belay" 和"belay off"
Yelled when the climber no longer requires a belay (e.g. because she/he has reached a stance). Once the belayer hears "off belay", he/she removes the rope from the belay device and yells "belay off".
5."On Belay ?"
Query to verify if the belayer is ready to secure the climber (US only).
6."Rock"
Scream let out to warn people down below that a piece of rock has been overcome by gravity. The loudness, number of repetitions, and/or panic in voice with which this word is uttered is often an indication of the seriousness of the rock. In the UK, you're more likely to hear "Below", beware!
7."Rope"
Should be yelled when a rope is about to be thrown to the base of the crag. In the UK, shout "Rope below".
8."Slack"
Yelled when the climber needs more rope (e.g. to clip into protection).
9."Stick it"
American slang meaning "hold on" or "go for it".
10."Taking in"
Heard often in British crags, meaning the climber is "off belay" and about to pull up the slack between him and the belayer.
11."Up Rope"
Yelled by the leader or the follower when she/he wants a tighter belay. (In UK: "Take in" or "Tight" or even "Watch me").
12."That's me"
Part of the climbing dialogue. Courtesy call to the belayer to indicate that the slack in the rope is all taken up and that further pulling is pointless.
13."I'm gonna send this route, dude!" --climb a route with ease
三、攀岩动作英语名称:
1.Barn door, to --To lose the foot and hand holds on one side of the body. Usually causes the climber to swing like a barn door.
2.Deadpoint --A dynamic move where the next hold is grabbed at the very top of the motion (if you lunge upwards, that is just before you start falling again). By grabbing a hold in its 'deadpoint', you place the smallest possible loads on the holds.
3.Dog (to dog a move)--Climbing, lowering, climbing again till a certain move is made (the usual mode of ascent...).
4.Dyno --Dynamic movement towards a distant hold.
5.Fingerlock --Masochistic technique to twist and wedge the fingers into a crack.
6.Handjam --Slightly masochistic technique where the hand is wedged into a crack.
7.Jam, to --Wedging body parts in a crack.
8.Lock-off --To hold on to the rock with one bent arm while using the other arm to reach up for the next hold or to place or clip protection. Lockoffs on small holds will get you pumped in a hurry.
9.pendulum --A swing on the rope, either intentional to gain a distant anchor on big wall climbs or unintentional when falling during a traverse with not enough pro in place.
10.Pimp, to --To do a short semi-dynamic stab. It's not quite a dynamic move, but it's also not quite static. It's the happy median.
11.Quickdraw, quick --Short sling with karabiners on either side
12.Rappel, to --Also: to rap. Descending by sliding down a rope.
13.Smearing --Foot technique where a big part of the climbing shoe is used to generate as much friction as possible. The opposite of edging.
14.Edging --Foot technique where one uses the edge of the climbing shoe to stand on small footholds
15.Stem, to --Bridging with the feet between two holds (US only).